The Papillons Ridge

We were hoping to go to Swiss Val Ferret to try the Gallet Ridge on Mont Dolent. However, with heavy rain on Friday, warm temperatures and recent avalanche activity we decided a quick drying rock route would be a better plan. We left Les Houches at 07.45 and got an early lift, despite it being pretty busy with Mont Blanc skiers. Anyhow, we had a great day on the Papillons Ridge, the last time I did it being 30 years ago. It was easier than last time around; rock shoes instead of big boots and approach shoes and lightweight axe served well for the descent. We used a 60m rope doubled for the climbing so we had a long rope to abseil on the ordinary descent, and this worked well. (For info the top pitch of Lepidopteres was snow covered.) The Papillons is a great route that deserves respect. This morning we woke to see the Papillons covered in fresh snow! Photos and recommended guidebook here.

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