The Papillons Ridge

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We were hoping to go to Swiss Val Ferret to try the Gallet Ridge on Mont Dolent. However, with heavy rain on Friday, warm temperatures and recent avalanche activity we decided a quick drying rock route would be a better plan. We left Les Houches at 07.45 and got an early lift, despite it being pretty busy with Mont Blanc skiers. Anyhow, we had a great day on the Papillons Ridge, the last time I did it being 30 years ago. It was easier than last time around; rock shoes instead of big boots and approach shoes and lightweight axe served well for the descent. We used a 60m rope doubled for the climbing so we had a long rope to abseil on the ordinary descent, and this worked well. (For info the top pitch of Lepidopteres was snow covered.) The Papillons is a great route that deserves respect. This morning we woke to see the Papillons covered in fresh snow! Photos and recommended guidebook here.

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