The Mallory Porter Route

With Mont Blanc ticked on Day 4, Dave and I had time available and an open itinerary. We noticed from the cable car that the Mallory Porter Route on the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi was in good nick, and decided (over a good meal and a couple of beers) to give it a go. It’s a climb I’d had on my list for a while, and it was nice to do a Mallory route, having read a bit about him recently before presenting “The Wildest Dream” last March. It was also a good chance for Dave to sample a classic AD+ and some real alpine mountaineering. So how did it go? Well it was a bit too mild, but the snow was ok where it mattered, and in the less well frozen sections where it had caught the sun the gear was ok. More photos here.

The Mallory-Porter is a good choice if you want an AD route from the Plan de l’Aiguille to the Midi. It’s quite popular, you can check it out from the Midi lift and it’s a convenient day out from the telepherique. However it’s serious for the grade so do it in good conditions! It was in good nick in late May, but the snow had gone by late June this year. The guidebook is Snow, Ice and Mixed Vol 2.

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