The Aiguille de la Dibona – Voie Berthet-Boell

This fantastic rock spire is a climb not to be missed! If you simply wish to reach the summit you can do so easily (PD) by snow/scree fields and a short rock climb up the North Ridge. Richard and Claire wanted to extend themselves further so we chose the Boell Route, an AD/IV climb that provides an excellent “tour of the rock”. This classic route starts on the East Face before traversing the South Face to a diedre on the West, then it returns via the South Shoulder to the crux moves back on the East Face, and finally tops out via a long line of slanting cracks and ledges on the east side.

Being early in the season we needed lightweight axes and crampons as the approach was on steep neve. Check conditions with Martine, the guardienne of the Soreiller Hut before you leave the valley. Rock shoes made the climbing enjoyable, and you’ll need a small rack of wires, hexes, cams and clips, plus plenty of slings. A single 50m rope is fine for the 2 well equipped abs on the descent of the normal route.

Routefinding is quite complex so study the climb in advance. Martine and Marie at the hut provide wonderful hospitality and advice. There are a couple of files of topos and photos in the hut. Check out the essential ones, which I’ve copied, and more photos here.

Dont miss it!

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