I travel all over the world when I have the chance, and I’ve been fortunate to visit many mountain regions. These include: the Peruvian and Ecuadorian Andes; Himalayan Peaks in India, Nepal and Tibet; the Karakoram of Pakistan; the Polar Regions including Antarctica, Greenland, Spitsbergen and Iceland; Carstenz Pyramid in Irian Jaya; Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro, the highest peaks in Africa; and not least some winter climbing in Poland.
I have organised 2 private professional expeditions to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro for clients. In total I’ve led 3 trips to Mount Kenya including the 2 guiding my own private clients, and climbed 7 of the peaks of Mount Kenya including Batian, Nelion, Lenana, Point John, Midget Peak and more. I’ve led routes including the Diamond Couloir with the Headwall, Ice Window, North Face Standard, Normal route on Nelion, South Face Route on Nelion. However, I work closely with Adventure Peaks and Tangent Expeditions, and most of my expeditioning is in association with one or other of these two Lake District based expedition providers to offer clients professionally led trips to the Greater Ranges and Greenland.
More information on how IFMGA Guides work in the Greater Ranges can be found on the BMG website.
The expeditions I have led for Adventure Peaks include ascents to the summits of Everest and Mount Vinson in Antarctica. I also helped them with their Ski the Last Degree to the South Pole expedition in January 2012. I have worked on the Adventure Peaks summer alpine programme since its inception in 2002, and also on their UK based courses. If your needs are suited to an “off the shelf” course or an expedition then I recommend Adventure Peaks.
I have led Tangent Expeditions ski mountaineering trips to the Arctic most years since 2000. These are usually to Greenland, but have also included skiing in Iceland and to the summit of Newtontoppen on the island of Spitsbergen, the highest point in Svalbard.
I’ve made 4 ski ascents of Gunnbjornsfjeld, the highest Peak in the Arctic, and in May 2006 made the first British ski descent from the summit. I have particular knowledge of the Watkins Mountains and Liverpool Land, having travelled to both regions on several occasions. Trips are usually in the spring ski touring season, but I’ve also been out in winter. It can be rather cold! Our Greenland expeditions have made many first ascents and descents, and are of an exploratory nature for people with a sense of adventure. A colourful trip with a difference was in 2005 when I provided the safety cover for the Channel 4 production “Ian Wright’s Excellent Adventure”, working with top mountaineering cameraman Keith Partridge, and of course the celebrity Ian Wright. Ian’s challenge was to pull all his things in a pulk (sledge) to Gunnbjornsfjeld, and then climb it. (Ian’s passion in those days was golf, and certainly not mountain climbing!).
Back home in the Lake District I provide Expedition Training for Tangent Expeditions, and I also offer training in the Alps for Tangent clients.
I offer Expedition Training on a private, bespoke basis for everyone, whichever expedition organiser they are travelling with, and I can provide help and advice if you are travelling privately and not using a UK operator at all. The training is usually similar to Alpine Preparation in the hard skills covered, but the content is tailored to the requirements of your particular trip. We will include a full expedition briefing specific to the area you are going to visit, including topics like the specialist kit you will need; and we can include additional hard skills where appropriate such as the use of fixed ropes, use of specialist cooking equipment, and camping skills for high altitude expeditions and the Polar Regions.