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Bionnassay Traverse

Andrew was visiting Europe with the Australian Police Rugby League Team, and he wanted to see the Alps and do some climbing whilst he was here. His team won the Police Rugby League World Cup, then he had a few days off before joining me for 5 days alpine climbing last week. We started with the Cosmiques Ridge and then decided to take advantage of the good conditions to make a traverse of the Domes de Miage  and Aiguille de Bionnassay. After that we wound down with a relaxing day on Via Corda Alpina and a pizza in Les Houches. So all in all, Andrew had a pretty successful European Tour! Photos here.

Hornli Jam

Dave and I climbed the Matterhorn last Sunday. We had hoped to do the Zmutt Ridge, which had been in very good condition. However, on traversing the Breithorn as our training climb we realised that significant fresh snow had fallen during a recent spell of bad weather. We suspected that the new snowfall combined with subsequent very warm temperatures had put the Zmutt out of condition, and this was confirmed by a call to Kurt Lauber at the Hornli Hut. We considered various alternative plans, and finally settled for an ascent of the Hornli Ridge. After some light entertainment at Scharzsee (see photo here) we headed up to the hut where I was amazed to bump into Nuru Sherpa, our Sirdar on several trips to Nepal including our 2007 Everest Expedition. Nuru is working at the Hornli Hut this summer.

Dave said this about the Zermatt trip: “Thanks once again for the outstanding time we had again in your back yard.  Shame about the Zmutt plan but it could still be a possibility in future.  A good excuse to keep fit.  What we managed to achieve though was just brilliant.  Great experiences throughout and I feel quite elated at having been to the top of the Matterhorn.  Anna is happy too, and my Mam as well as others.”

Photos here.

Mont Blanc Successes

Here’s a photo from Jeff Smith who says:

Hi Robin,
Thanks for your e-mail, here is a pic of me and Philip at the top of Mont Blanc with our Help A Capital Child flag, and if you could put a link to www.everestatfifty.co.uk on your journal that would be dynamite! Also any links to www.facebook.com/EverestAtFifty would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
Our meal at Le Delis, I think that’s what it was called, was awesome, so thanks also for your recommendation, it was a great finish to a great day.
Cheers for helping me achieve a memorable 50th, which will always be with me.
I wish you well, and thanks again from me and Philip.
Regards,
Jeff
You can read more about Jeff’s Mont Blanc week and his Everest at 50 projects on his website and Facebook Page.
I’ve also made 2 successful ascents of Mont Blanc from the Aiguille du Midi cable car during July. Photos are at www.facebook.com/RobinBeadleMountainGuiding
Alpine Update

Late June has been really great here in the Alps. Sam and I made a successful ascent of Mont Blanc by the Gouter Route. Then Dave and I had 3 days rock climbing on Voie Caline, Mille et une Pattes and Voie Frison-Roche. We then had a day off before heading up to the Couvercle Hut and climbing the Aiguille Verte by the Whymper Couloir, which was in excellent condition. We wound down on the Cosmiques Ridge to end the week and Dave hopes to return later in the season to try the Zmutt. To end the month of June Rebekah and I went up to Les Chéserys and had a really nice afternoon on Un Père Noël pour Lucy.

There are photos of all these routes here, and please also visit UKC and vote on the Whymper photos I posted this week.

Good climbing!

Iceman Polar

Iceman Polar is possibly the world’s  toughest Arctic ski race.

For full details of this landmark ultra-marathon visit www.icemanpolar.com